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Oce1001 Chapter 8 Quiz
Surging breakers.
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Which type of breaker has a curling crest that moves over an air pocket?
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What type of plate boundary are most associated with tsunamis?
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What force is responsible for most ocean waves that eventually break on shore?
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What type of breaker would pose the most danger to people playing or swimming in the surf zone?
Wave steepness reaches a ratio of 1:7
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What is the crest of the wave?
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"Whitecaps" form when ______.
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What is the wave height?
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Most ocean waves form as a result of:
300,000
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The time between two successive waves is called the:
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Waves at the ocean surface are __________ waves.
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What is the speed in mps of a wavelength of 3.5 meters?
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1 wave in ______ will be four times the height of the wave average.
2.8 MPS
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What is the speed in mps of a wavelength of 3.5 meters?
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Which of the following caused the Indian Ocean tsunami of 2004?
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What is the speed in mps of a deep-water wave with a wavelength of 5 meters?
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What occurs more often, pure destructive, pure constructive, or mixed?
Principle of decreasing orbital motion with depth.
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Which type of breaker is a turbulent mass of air and water that runs down the front slope of the wave as it breaks?
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What force is responsible for most ocean waves that eventually break on shore?
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Submarines sometimes ride out heavy storms in deep-water by submerging. That is a practical application of utilizing the _____________.
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Conditions for the development of wave energy are most optimal along ______ the shores in _______ Hemisphere.
The pattern produced when two or more waves interact.
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What is the wave height?
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What is the crest of the wave?
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What is an interference pattern?
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What is the wave base?
Decreasing speed, increases steepness.
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What force is responsible for most ocean waves that eventually break on shore?
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As a wave approaches shore, its characteristics change by ______.
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What type of plate boundary are most associated with tsunamis?
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As a wave begins to feel the bottom near a shoreline, its wave height:
Mixed interference.
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What type of breaker would pose the most danger to people playing or swimming in the surf zone?
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The largest wind-generated waves tend to be associated with the:
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What occurs more often, pure destructive, pure constructive, or mixed?
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Which type of breaker has a curling crest that moves over an air pocket?
-Classified by their depth of water in which they move.-Described by their period, wavelength, and height. -Ocean waves can be classified by the force that created them.
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What is the wavelength?
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Which is true about ocean waves?
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The height of a wavelength depends upon:
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What does the term "in phase" refer to?
Longitudinal.
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__________ waves also known as side-to-side waves.
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The time between two successive waves is called the:
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__________ waves also know as push-pull waves.
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Most ocean waves form as a result of:
Plunging breakers.
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Waves at the ocean surface are __________ waves.
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Which of the following is the least frequent cause of a tsunami in recent centuries?
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Which type of breaker has a curling crest that moves over an air pocket?
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Waves that are breaking along the shore and are forming curling crests over air pockets are called:
23
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In the open ocean, 1 wave in ______ will be over twice the height of the wave average.
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The number of wave crests passing a fixed location per unit of time is called the _____.
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Which type of breaker has a curling crest that moves over an air pocket?
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What is the speed in mps of a wavelength of 3.5 meters?
Wave amplitude decreases as depth increases.
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How does wave refraction at headlands affect deposition and erosion?
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Why does wave height increase as waves enter shallow water?
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How does wave amplitude change with depth in water?
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How does water move as waves pass?
The depth of the wave base is one-half the wavelength of the waves.
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What is the speed in mps of a wavelength of 3.5 meters?
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What is the trough of a wave?
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What is the relationship between wave base and wavelength?
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Which of the following best describes a plunging breaker?
Pacific Ocean.
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Which of the following caused the Indian Ocean tsunami of 2004?
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Which of the following is the least frequent cause of a tsunami in recent centuries?
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Which ocean is associated with most tsunamis?
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A tsunami is considered to be a __________.
This is likely, because it is near many ocean trenches.
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Will Sumatra experience another tsunami like 2004?
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What is the wavelength?
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How does wave amplitude change with depth in water?
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What is the relationship between wave base and wavelength?
Plunging breaker.
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Which ocean is associated with most tsunamis?
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What type of breaker would pose the most danger to people playing or swimming in the surf zone?
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Which of the following is the least frequent cause of a tsunami in recent centuries?
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Which type of breaker has a curling crest that moves over an air pocket?
good; erosion
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The circular motion of water molecules extends to a depth that is equal to:
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Constructive interference results in larger waves whereas destructive interference produces:
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The largest wind-generated waves tend to be associated with the:
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Refraction causes headlands to be areas of _______ surfing and sites of ________.
2.34 MPS
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What is the speed in meters per second of a deep water wave with a wavelength of 1.5 meters?
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What is the speed in mps of a deep-water wave with a wavelength of 5 meters?
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What is the speed in mps of a wavelength of 3.5 meters?
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The time between two successive waves is called the:
Water depth.
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The speed of a shallow-water wave is proportional to:
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The time it takes one full wave to pass a fixed position is called the ______.
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The largest wind-generated waves tend to be associated with the:
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The majority of tsunamis are caused by underwater __________.
Transverse.
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The largest wind-generated waves tend to be associated with the:
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__________ waves also known as side-to-side waves.
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Waves at the ocean surface are __________ waves.
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The time between two successive waves is called the:
Wave period.
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Constructive interference results in larger waves whereas destructive interference produces:
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The largest wind-generated waves tend to be associated with the:
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The circular motion of water molecules extends to a depth that is equal to:
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The time it takes one full wave to pass a fixed position is called the ______.
-The tsunami warning system uses seismic waves and deep-ocean pressure sensors to detect tsunamis. -Tsunamis have very long wavelengths, so they travel at very high speed.-At the coast, a tsunami looks like a suddenly occurring high or low tide.-Tsunamis are undetectable by ships in the open ocean.
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What is an interference pattern?
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What is the trough of a wave?
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Which is true about tsunamis?
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What is the wave period?
The energy of the wave must be contained within a smaller water column in shallow water.
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What is the relationship between wave base and wavelength?
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What results when two waves, in phase and with the same wavelength, interact?
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Why does wave height increase as waves enter shallow water?
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What does the term "in phase" refer to?
The part of the wave in shallow water slows down, causing the wave to bend and line up nearly parallel to the shore.
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What is an interference pattern?
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What is the relationship between wave base and wavelength?
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What is the wave base?
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What causes wave refraction?
The highest part of the wave.
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What is the wave period?
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What is the wave height?
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What is the crest of the wave?
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What is the trough of a wave?
Wave refraction.
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Wave speed is equal to:
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Waves converge on headlands due to:
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How does wave refraction at headlands affect deposition and erosion?
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Wave refraction is ____________.
Pacific.
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Ocean waves in motion are classified as ___________ waves.
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A vast majority of all large tsunamis are generated in the _______ Ocean.
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What is the speed in meters per second of a deep water wave with a wavelength of 1.5 meters?
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The time it takes one full wave to pass a fixed position is called the ______.
1/2 of the wavelength.
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Ocean waves in motion are classified as ___________ waves.
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Which type of breaker has a curling crest that moves over an air pocket?
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A deep-water wave occurs when the water depth is equal to at least:
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As a wave approaches shore, its characteristics change by ______.
A gently sloping, sandy bottom or rocky bottom
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Which is true about ocean waves?
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Which is likely to produce a spilling breaker?
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The height of a wavelength depends upon:
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Will Sumatra experience another tsunami like 2004?
Wind's blowing across ocean's surface.
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As a wave begins to feel the bottom near a shoreline, its wave height:
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Most ocean waves form as a result of:
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What does the term "in phase" refer to?
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How does water move as waves pass?
1.53 MPS
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Waves at the ocean surface are __________ waves.
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Which of the following caused the Indian Ocean tsunami of 2004?
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What is the speed in meters per second of a deep water wave with a wavelength of 1.5 meters?
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The depth below the surface where the circular orbits become so small that movement is negligible is called the __________.
Western; Southern.
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Conditions for the development of wave energy are most optimal along ______ the shores in _______ Hemisphere.
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What occurs more often, pure destructive, pure constructive, or mixed?
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Constructive interference results in larger waves whereas destructive interference produces:
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The speed of a shallow-water wave is proportional to:
Spilling breaker.
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Which type of breaker forms waves that present the greatest challenge to body surfers?
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Which type of breaker is a turbulent mass of air and water that runs down the front slope of the wave as it breaks?
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Which type of breaker has a curling crest that moves over an air pocket?
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What type of breaker would pose the most danger to people playing or swimming in the surf zone?
A series of waves that travel away from a fault in all directions at high speed.
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What is the wave base?
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What is the wavelength?
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What is refraction?
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What is a tsunami?
Through displacement of the seafloor under water.
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What is refraction?
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What is the wave period?
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How are tsunamis generated?
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What causes wave refraction?
The bending of waves.
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The height of a wavelength depends upon:
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Wave speed is equal to:
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Wave refraction is ____________.
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A wave will begin to break when:
The time it takes for one wavelength of a wave to pass a particular point/
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What is the wave base?
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What does the term "in phase" refer to?
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What is the wave height?
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What is the wave period?
The waves are moving more slowly just in front of the headland, causing the waves to bend.
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Why do ocean waves bend around headlands?
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Why does wave height increase as waves enter shallow water?
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Why does the wave height of a tsunami increase as the tsunami enters shallow water?
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What is an interference pattern?
Rogue waves, Freak waves, Super waves.
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Which of the following is the least frequent cause of a tsunami in recent centuries?
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When will perfect consecutive interference occur for waves that are in phase and are moving in the same velocity?
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What force is responsible for most ocean waves that eventually break on shore?
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Which of the following are names for large waves that can be created by interference?
fetch, wind duration, and wind speed.
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Why do ships at sea not notice tsunamis?
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What is an interference pattern?
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The height of a wavelength depends upon:
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What causes the three different types of breakers?
Steepness = 1:7
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Waves converge on headlands due to:
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Sound travels as __________ waves.
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What is the crest of the wave?
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A wave will begin to break when:
Convergent plate boundaries.
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Which type of breaker forms when the wave build up and breaks right a the shoreline?
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What type of plate boundary are most associated with tsunamis?
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What is the trough of a wave?
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What occurs more often, pure destructive, pure constructive, or mixed?
Wavelength.
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The time between two successive waves is called the:
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The speed of a deep-water wave is proportional to:
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The depth below the surface where the circular orbits become so small that movement is negligible is called the __________.
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__________ waves also known as side-to-side waves.
Swell
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The largest wind-generated waves tend to be associated with the:
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The depth below the surface where the circular orbits become so small that movement is negligible is called the __________.
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What is the speed in mps of a deep-water wave with a wavelength of 5 meters?
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One that doesn't fit the pattern: -Surf-Swell-Spilling breaker-Surging breaker-Plunging breaker
The lower limit of wave-induced motion in water.
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What is the wave height?
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What is the relationship between wave base and wavelength?
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What is the trough of a wave?
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What is the wave base?
Wave base.
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The largest wind-generated waves tend to be associated with the:
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The speed of a shallow-water wave is proportional to:
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Constructive interference results in larger waves whereas destructive interference produces:
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The depth below the surface where the circular orbits become so small that movement is negligible is called the __________.
A wave with an amplitude that is the sum of the amplitudes of the initial waves.
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Why does wave height increase as waves enter shallow water?
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What occurs more often, pure destructive, pure constructive, or mixed?
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What is the wave period?
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What results when two waves, in phase and with the same wavelength, interact?
The wave begins to interact with the seafloor as it moves into shallower water.
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What triggers a wave traveling across the ocean to finally release its energy?
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What is the relationship between wave base and wavelength?
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When will perfect consecutive interference occur for waves that are in phase and are moving in the same velocity?
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What causes the three different types of breakers?
-the inverse of wave frequency. -the time it takes for one full wavelength to pass a given point.
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Wave period
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In general the restoring force for wind-generated waves is:
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Rogue waves are created along the "Wild coast" off the southeast coast of _______.
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Why does wave height increase as waves enter shallow water?
Period.
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What is the speed in mps of a wavelength of 3.5 meters?
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The largest wind-generated waves tend to be associated with the:
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The time between two successive waves is called the:
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Ripple like clouds in the sky are examples of _______ waves.
Wavelength divided by period.
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What is the trough of a wave?
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Wave speed is equal to:
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What is the crest of the wave?
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What is the wave base?
Storm-generated winds that blow across the surface.
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What type of breaker would pose the most danger to people playing or swimming in the surf zone?
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Which of the following best describes a plunging breaker?
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What force is responsible for most ocean waves that eventually break on shore?
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Why does the wave height of a tsunami increase as the tsunami enters shallow water?
Westerlies.
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Ocean waves in motion are classified as ___________ waves.
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The largest wind-generated waves tend to be associated with the:
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The circular motion of water molecules extends to a depth that is equal to:
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Ripple like clouds in the sky are examples of _______ waves.
fault movement.
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The majority of tsunamis are caused by underwater __________.
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The number of wave crests passing a fixed location per unit of time is called the _____.
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The time it takes one full wave to pass a fixed position is called the ______.
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The speed of a deep-water wave is proportional to:
Water moves in the same direction as wave movement.
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How does wave refraction at headlands affect deposition and erosion?
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Waves converge on headlands due to:
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How does water move as waves pass?
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How are tsunamis generated?
Orbital waves.
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What is the wave period?
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Waves converge on headlands due to:
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Ocean surface waves are:
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The largest wind-generated waves tend to be associated with the:
Fault movement.
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The circular motion of water molecules extends to a depth that is equal to:
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Most of the year, and most of the time, the movement of a sediment and water along the California coast is from ___________.
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Which of the following caused the Indian Ocean tsunami of 2004?
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Ripple like clouds in the sky are examples of _______ waves.
In shallow water, the energy of the tsunami must be contained within a column.
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What is the relationship between wave base and wavelength?
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How does wave refraction at headlands affect deposition and erosion?
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Why does the wave height of a tsunami increase as the tsunami enters shallow water?
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What does the term "in phase" refer to?
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